The Yew is the National Tree of France but I think it should be the Sycamore, Platanus racemosa.

The entrance to almost every small town in France is announced to drivers by a long tunnel of overhanging sycamore trees. In the town where I live, we have the usual allee at the entrance but also a long row that lines the river and a giant bosque in the plaza where the locals play petangue in the shade.  They are of bare in the winter and the shade is gone but not their beauty.  I took the opportunity of this past rainy Sunday to get my seven year old out of the house and take a walk with my camera.

Along the promenade

Shade for the petanque players

Because Sycamores are riparian trees and used to getting disturbed by flooding rivers they are pretty resilient. It looks like this one has been burnt and then cut down but the stump won’t give up

Wet Sycamore bark had to be the inspiration for camouflage

Metal grates and concrete walls are no obstacles for the resourceful sycamore

Taking a drink from the rivers edge

This one makes a nice finish to the stairs to the river

View from the bridge

I've loved sycamores since I learned to climb trees but I’m not looking forward to the pollen season. ☺

Hope you like the photos and sorry for the fuzziness of some of them.

Rees

It’s that time of year again when many gardeners are planting bulbs and tubers in anticipation of their beautiful spring blossoms. That is, at least those proactive gardeners are doing this. I tend to forget to plant my new bulbs until I see the interesting flowers in spring and then kick myself for neglecting to add something new to my collection. This year might be different because I got a nice reminder recently. It just so happens I was in the veterinarian’s office for my pup, Hercules, (see photo below) for his annual check-up. On the waiting room wall I found a list of plants that can poison your dogs and cats, and I was really surprised to see so many bulbs on the list.

When I got home I did a little more research and found that there is no need to panic and rip everything out of your garden; however, there are certain plants you may want to avoid planting.

From what I have learned, death from eating plants is very rare for full-grown canines. It’s puppies and cats that are at the most risk. Ingesting enough of some of these poisonous plants can actually kill the little ones or, at the very least, make them very sick. I’m all for having a beautiful garden, but why risk losing a beloved pet?

I’ve concentrated on mostly poison bulbs and tubers in this post, but in my upcoming eBook Plants that are Poisonous to Your Pets I’ll provide a very complete list of plants, herbs and bulbs that can harm your dog or cat along with photos and emergency remedies for both outdoor and indoor plants. I’ll also share some secrets on how to prevent your pup from digging up newly planted bulbs.

Here is a list of some of the common garden plants that can make pets sick or worse. After each entry is a list of symptoms your pet may exhibit after ingesting the plant or its flowers:

Please use the following plants sparingly and only in protected areas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

• Autumn Crocus

• o Severe vomiting
• o Gastrointestinal bleeding
• o Liver and Kidney Damage
• o Shock

• Azalea

• o Severe vomiting
• o Diarrhea
• o Drooling
• o Coma and Death

• Hyacinth bulbs

• o Severe vomiting
• o Diarrhea
• o Drooling

• Tulip Bulbs

• o Severe vomiting
• o Diarrhea
• o Drooling

• Cyclamen

• o Severe vomiting
• o Diarrhea
• o Drooling
• o Heart Arrhythmias

• Sago Palm

• o Severe vomiting
• o Bloody Stools
• o Damage to the stomach lining
• o Severe Liver failure
• o Death

• Kalanchoe

• o Severe vomiting
• o Diarrhea
• o Heart arrhythmias
• o Metrological signs

• Oleander

• o Severe vomiting
• o Abnormal Heart rate
• o Death
• o Shock
• o Weakness

• Daffodil Bulbs

• o Severe vomiting
• o Diarrhea
• o Abdominal Pain
• o Abnormal heart rate
• o Changes in respiration

• Lilies

• o Highly toxic to cats
• o Severe kidney failure

According to the veterinarians at the ASPCA, the best emergency response if you suspect your pet has been poisoned is to contact your local veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center hotline at (888) 426-4435.

If your pet is having seizures or losing consciousness, rush them to the nearest veterinary office. If you want more information you can find it here on the  ASPCA website or call the Pet Poison Hotline number mentioned above.

One final thought – Even if you don’t have pets of your own, your neighbors might. And don’t forget about all of the wild animals and birds. If you must uses some of these plants in your garden, please use them with great caution and care. If you are stumped for a substitute I can always suggest a safe alternative. All you have to do is ask. ☺

Rees

PET POISON HOTLINE  (888) 426-4435

Dendrobium Sonia

They’re really NOT THAT DIFFICULT

( If you are only looking for Orchid plants or supplies click HERE )

When I’m at my home in South Florida one of my favorite things to do on the weekend is to stroll through the farmers market.  Besides all the delicious foods and collections of crafts, there are several dealers that specialize in selling beautiful Orchids. They have them hanging from tent supports and lined up on tables and racks. Almost every color is present, and it seems like every flower is different. Every so often I am drawn in and succumb to the desire to have an orchid collection and plunk down some cash. Luckily for me, in South Florida the whole Orchidacea generally grow quite well, even when neglected.  Maybe someday I’ll try my hand at hybridizing.

My collection has grown a bit over the years, and I have learned a few things I thought would be worth sharing with other novices.  Plenty of websites exist for orchid info so I’ll keep to the basics here.

TWO PROBLEM AREAS

Orchid problems generally fall into two groups, cultural problems and pest problems. By cultural I mean the way they are cared for, the amount of light they’re exposed to, watering, potting media, fertilizer temperature, and so on.  Pest problems include fungus, insects, and diseases. This article discusses cultural problems.  Check back later for my article regarding the pest problems.

Below are a couple of causes for certain symptoms related to cultural problems:

FOLIAGE PROBLEMS FIRST

Yellow spots on leaves.

This can be sunburn. Make sure your orchids do not have any direct sun exposure between 10:00 am and 4:00 pm.

Yellowing on older leaves

This is probably normal and will occur as the plant grows.

Yellow leaves turning brown then black

This could be the result of water sitting on leaves too long.  Make sure you never water in the evening or allow water to sit on the leaves overnight.  Morning watering is best.  Another cause could be a shock to the plant caused by sharp changes in temperature.  Orchids like to be kept within a 10 degree range so if you keep them inside don’t think it is helpful to put them outside for a day or two. T he temperature change can be detrimental. (I have first hand experience with this one!)

Mottling on leaves

This is probably a fertilizer imbalance. Be sure you are using specialty fertilizers for orchids and that you are following the directions EXACTLY. If you have a Paphiopedilum or “Lady Slipper”  like this don’t panic – her leaves are supposed to be mottled.

Paphiopedilum or “Lady Slipper”

Limp or droopy leaves

There are a few causes for soft and tired-looking leaves. My first inclination is to make sure they have been watered recently. If not, then I suggest soaking them.  If that doesn’t work, here are a couple of other possibilities:  If older leaves are droopy you may have to re-pot to a SMALLER container.  Orchids in general like to have cramped roots.  If the newer leaves are droopy, they may be saying they need a bit more light.

White Orchid

NOW FOR SOME FLOWER ISSUES

After all, lets face it, the leaves of orchids are pretty boring. It is the flowers that we put all this effort into them for.

Flowers form but don’t open properly.

There are a few possibilities here but the most common is that the humidity is too low. Try misting more often or adding a humidifier to the room. Another cause could be a change in location after bud development.  Once you see a flower stalk forming, don’t move the plant around. If you want to move it to a spot where you can display its flowers better, just wait until the flowers are developed and at least half of them have opened. A cold shock is another possible cause. You’ll want to try and avoid these if possible.

Flowers form but drop off before opening fully.

There are two probable causes of flower drop.  One is that the plant is stressed by a recent location change or a cold location.  Another cause is that orchids orient the blooms towards the light source, so if you move the plant to water it or change locations for display purposes, you can only do this a few times unless you align the plant as it was before you moved it. If the blossoms constantly have to re-orient themselves towards the light source they will weaken and fall off.

Healthy plant that just won’t bloom.

If this is that cases with your plants then don’t give up. It could be that your plant is still in a juvenile form and is not mature enough to bloom, so just give it some time.  Different varieties mature at different rates so I won’t go into detail here.  Comment below, and I can give you details for your variety. Another cause is that the roots have too much room.  Try a smaller container and/or add more orchid media to the pot.  One other possibility is that you are using a fertilizer that is too high in nitrogen, which helps with leaf development. To get many plants to flower you will need to shift to one more conducive to creating blossoms. I suggest you use a 3:1:3 or a 4:1:4 specialty orchid fertilizer .

I’ll save my discussion of Pest and Disease problems for another post as this is getting a bit long winded. If you have specific problems, you can post your question below or in our new Forum section and see what else others have to say.

Pink Cymbidium Orchid

One last comment is that I am working on a new e-book on basic orchid care. If you are interested in having a copy, send me a note and I’ll be sure and let you know when I have finished it. If you need supplies or plants click HERE

Happy Gardening

Spring in Washington D.C. means it’s Cherry blossom time in fact March 26th through April 10th are the dates of the 2011 National Cherry Blossom Festival. In 1912 the Mayor of Tokyo donated 3,000 Cherry trees to Washington D.C.  All sorts of events are planned around the blossom time including blossom tours and cruises, art shows, the Cherry Blossom Gala as well as special bike rides and of course the annual Flower Exhibition.
The last few years the crowds have been down because the rain has kept people away but this year the skies are expected to be sunny.
I think the cherry blossom is one of the most beautiful flowers there is but the dainty flowers only last a few days. So in honor of the National Cherry Blossom Festival, I thought I’d provide a show of some of my favorite varieties of genus Prunus.

Most of the trees at the National Festival are Yoshino variety but there are also Akebono, Kwanzan and a few others mixed in. If you have any photos of your own please pass them on and I’ll add them to the post.

If you want to try your hand at growing flowering cherries have at it. They do well in almost any climate except the deep south. If space is a limited, look for a weeping variety, if not then the Akebono’s and Kwanzans are pretty much the standard and will grow to 20 ft plus high and wide.(Kwanzans are a bit more vertical)  Don’t expect any edible fruit from these types though. If you want fruit, Prunus cerasus types are tart and Prunus avium types are sweet and both come in a bunch of cultivars.

If you want some other ideas for smallish pretty trees here is a link to a previous post on the subject.

Trees for small spaces

Thanks,
Rees

Homegrown Aphrodisiacs

As requested by BJSUPERMIX, who posted a comment on my blog, I decided to look into and report back on some naturally occurring aphrodisiacs. Since this is a blog about gardening (usually) I focused my research on plant-based compounds and stayed away from the rhinoceros horns and the Zimbabwe Dung Beetle stuff.

Initially I put the “sex in the garden” post on the blog as a joke to see how many readers would have their interest piqued, and let me tell you, I have been surprised at the number of people who have clicked on the link. At first I had an article in that category about froggy lovin’ with some racy photos for all the frogs reading my blog, but when BJSUPERMIX wrote in, and I decided to look into natural aphrodisciacs (as a scientific endeavor of course). Here is what I found out.

Over the course of history many different herbs and plant parts have had, let me say, “exciting” results attributed to them. Actually, there are many reports detailing the stimulating properties of several common plants including some you may not expect.

How about the ornamental bedding plant Coleus? Yep, good old Coleus. The active photochemical in Coleus is forskohlii and numerous studies have proven several beneficial effects. I bet you’ll look at it differently next time you want to root some cuttings on your windowsill. Maybe some coleus tea?

And how about chocolate? Yep chocolate too. The cacao seed pod which is the base for chocolate, contains high amounts of theobromine and phenethylamine, which increase brain serotonin levels. I guess it causes the heart to beat faster, and those “thoughts” to enter your mind.

Here are some less common naturally occurring aphrodisiacs:

• Damiana:  Turnera diffusa, Turnera aphrodisiaca. A native of Mexico and the southern US and the leaves are commonly made into a tea
• Maca:  Lepidium meyenii, Peruvian ginseng. The Incans first used this one, again normally made into a tea.
• Yohimbe:  Pausinystalia yohimbe. This is an evergreen tree that grows naturally in several areas of western Africa. The aphrodisiacs are made of an extract of the bark. All sorts of positive benefits are attributed to Yohimbe. It is said to be useful in weight loss, treating depression, as well as revving up those love motors. There are also lots of warnings about Yohimbe so use with caution. Overdoses can be toxic.
• Ginseng-Panax: I think Ginseng is attributed with helping with just about everthing from diabetes to immune problems to erectile disfunction.
• Horny Goat Weed: (with a name like that it just has to work, right?) This is a green leafy plant from China and the Mediterranean. It will grow in the temperate climates of the US.

Regardless of how you feel about the idea of aphrodisiacs, there is no doubt that these natural herbs do have a physical effect on those who take them. Considering that many drugs used today to cure diseases and alleviate pains come from plants, it’s not surprising that some of them could be used as mood enhancers.

So my advice: enjoy the herbs, but save some of your energy for working in your vegetable garden.

Rees

My Tips for Trimming Roses

Excerpt from my eBook HOW TO PRUNE ROSES  available at Rainforth Home and Garden HERE

It’s that time of year again in the rose world when gardeners are cleaning their tools off, sharpening their shears, and waiting for a break in the weather so they can get out and begin a much anticipated annual ritual. I say much anticipated because as one who understands the process and the correct techniques of rose pruning, I look forward to it each year.  But I know that for new gardeners, the act of pruning roses can seem daunting and even downright is scary for some.  Don’t worry though – if  you learn a few simple methods that I am going to teach you, you will have no need to be fearful.

There’s not enough room on this blog to teach you all of the details and the subtle nuances that are necessary to become an expert, but I think I can pass on enough of the basics to get you started on the right path. You can always get detailed instructions in my new eBook on pruning roses (see link below) if you want the complete picture.

As you may be aware, roses come in a few basic types, and each one is handled differently.  I’ll focus on the Hybrid Tea type roses for now.  Climbers and Knockouts are covered in my eBook on the subject.  Hybrid Teas as a group produce the large, colorful roses you would find at a florist or in a rose competition.

When to Prune

One question I am frequently asked is, “When should I start my trimming?” Here’s what I suggest – if you are in a more moderate location like California or Texas, late January or February is the best time to prune. If you are in a colder climate, you should probably hold off until March.  Don’t just look at the calendar though – you should schedule your pruning to fit into the following window: once the chance of a freeze has passed but before the buds on the rose canes begin to swell.

Here is what you should focus on when carrying out your annual trimming of Hybrid Teas:

• Maintain a constant supply of young growth
• Create the situation for best individual bud development
• Develop longer flower stems for cutting
• Aim for an evenly shaped shrub
• Develop an open center for light and air circulation
• Shape to keep head in balance with trunk

You can start getting ready during the winter months by gathering and preparing your tools. I suggest that you invest in good quality rose trimming tools and take good care of them.  Like my father always said – only a rich man can afford cheap tools.  The following is a basic list of tools that will get you by:

• Loppers (no anvil types)
• Bypass hand clippers (my favorite are Felcos)
• Holster (optional)
• Folding pruning saw
• *Gloves (good quality rose gloves)

*Specialized rose pruning gloves will save your forearms and are well worth the investment.

A good garden center can get you pointed to the correct tools. Don’t let them talk you out of the bypass-style hand clippers.

When the time is right (within the window mentioned above), gather your tools and have some time set aside where you won’t be rushed.  It’s time to begin…No Wait!…There is one other thing I always do and suggest you consider doing it too.

You see, roses have these things called THORNS and those thorns have been lying in wait all Winter long for Spring to come and some unwitting human (you) to come within reach. I don’t believe that roses are truly mean, but they do like to remind you that they are “allowing” you to prune them.  They do this by jabbing their pointed daggers deep beneath your skin when your attention is elsewhere, so I suggest you say a brief prayer to the rose gods before you start pruning. You can certainly make up your own plea, but if you can’t come up with one you can use mine.

“My dearest most beautiful rose. Please be nice to me today. I only want to help you become more beautiful and healthy so that you can live a long live and so that people and animals will be amazed at your wondrous beauty.  I will be gentle with you if you will be so with me.”

Now we’re ready to begin.

Step 1

Remove any dead or diseased wood first.  Cut it off, and toss it away. I suggest that if you have a large amount of diseased plant material that you dip the blades of your tools in a mix of water and bleach to prevent the transfer of disease once you have removed all the junk.  Use about a teaspoon of bleach to a gallon of water.

Step 2

Create a clear view of the plant structure (the skeleton). I do this by cutting off everything above two feet. It’s important that you have a clear view of the plant for the next step because you are going to be selecting the proper canes to keep.

Step 3

I approach pruning my roses as a sculptor approaches a block of marble.  This makes the process very simple.  I picture what I want the end result to be and just remove everything else.  See? Simple right?  My ideal shape for the end result is three or five canes that are shaped like a cone and evenly spaced (as close as possible) and are no more than 18″ long.  The canes should be last year’s growth and should be green and supple and not dark and woody. Once you have selected the canes you are going to keep, just cut out everything else. Once you’re done with this step, it’s time to move onto cutting the canes to the correct length.

Step 4

Bud selection. One of the goals noted above was to create the conditions for an open shrub, so that there is good air circulation. Roses are well known for the number of diseases and fungus they can develop, and one way to combat mildew and others pains in the you-know-what is to let air penetrate into the center of the plant. Keep that in mind when you are selecting how short to cut each cane. You should look for a bud on each cane that is facing outward not toward the side or the center of the cone. You may need to go down the cane a few inches to find one, but even if you have to cut the canes at staggered heights it’s okay. The canes should end up between 12″ and 16″ (18″ tops) long.

There are  rules about how to make that cut in relation to the bud, but just try to cut around 1/2 inch above the bud. Not too close and never further away than 1″ at a maximum.

Step 5

Have the kids, your spouse or friend help with the cleanup.  One suggestion I have to help alleviate the pain of grabbing a thorn is to use your loppers to chop the debris into smaller pieces before loading into the trash; and never grab a pile of rose cuttings without your gloves. Those buggers always seem to find a chink in the armor.

Step 6

Now it is time to get a beer, a glass of wine, or an iced tea and admire your handiwork. Once I have stepped away from the plants for a while I usually can see a few things I missed that need to be touched-up.  Feel free to putter around your roses a bit more with drink in hand.

Step 7

Once I am all finished I like to distribute a good quality rose fertilizer around the base of the plant (or per the instructions) and soak them with the hose. They’ll appreciate you more if you give them a drink after all they have been through.

I hope that this helps reduce some of the hesitancy you may have been feeling as a new rose enthusiast. If you follow these instructions you will be well on your way to having beautiful flowers adorning your garden and your table.

If you need further guidance or just want to learn more about the tricks and secrets of trimming for beautiful roses you can find more help in my most recent gardening eBook in the Rainforth Home and Garden series  Great Gardens Simplified “How to Trim Roses”

Happy Pruning,

Rees

It’s well known that beautiful fragrances can be derived from plants and their flowers. Roses, lilacs jasmine are a few beautiful scents that come to mind.

As with most things, there is also an opposite, and this time of year the opposites of the beautiful fragrances become evident.  Summer and fall seem to be a time when the smelliest, stinkiest and most noxious odors are released by plants into the air to be inhaled and processed by our olfactory nerves.

Many plant nerds, myself included, find the smells, well, interesting. Mother nature has given these plants an unusual smell for a purpose and that sort of thing always intrigues me; but if you are put off by bad odors, here are a few plants to avoid.

Ginkgo Trees

Ginkgos are very popular urban street trees for several reasons, but boy do they stink!  Their smell is unmistakable and should be taken into consideration when planting. Think rotten eggs or according to some…vomit.  Eww.

Viburnum

There are several nice varieties of viburnum and most are great plants and small trees. The species “suspensum” is used commonly for a hedge plant. It takes to shaping well and is pretty resistant to insects and low water areas. This makes it a perfect candidate for foundation plantings and plants used to hide the concrete foundations of homes and office buildings. Unfortunately, there is a three-week period at the end of summer where a distinct stink comes from this one. I think the positive aspects outweigh the smelly period though.

Amorphophallus

A.K.A. smelly corpse plant or sometimes called corpse flower…….need I say more?  ……Yes, the plant nerd in me thinks this is a really cool plant. And if you have a chance to check it out, you should. Botanical gardens are probably the only place most of you will encounter it.

Rafflesia

Another one that smells like rotting flesh. If you have ever smelled it you will always remember it, and if you ever have a chance to see it, consider yourself lucky. This is an incredible flower, 4-5ft wide and a deep red with speckles.

Tulbaghia

This is a low-growing herbaceous plant with a beautiful pink flower the sits on multiple stocks about the strap like foliage. It’s the foliage that smells. The odor is not as distinct as some of the others mentioned, but when crushed, a pseudo garlic smell permeates the air. (This is one of my favorite plants) I love to plant it near the sliding doors of clients’ homes so that they catch a whiff of it now and then, drawing their attention to the garden.

There are many more smelly plants, but these are a few of the stinkiest plants and trees. I guess, like beauty, the attraction to smell is in the eye of the “besmeller”.  I, for one, like flowers and plants from the wrong side of the tracks!

If you can think of any other stinky, smelly plants leave me a comment below and I’ll add it to the list.

Happy Gardening,

Rees

I love looking at all the photos of peoples gardens on the gardening blogs and wanted to share a few of mine. I’ve been without a functioning camera for a while now but recently found my charger and spent a few minutes shooting some photos of flowers in my yard. I hope you enjoy them.

Bougainvilleas and firebush on my patio

Firebush closeup

Allamanda

I need some help identifying this last one. I believe it’s a type of purslane. It has succulent foliage and the flowers close as the sun sets and reopen when the sun comes out. The flowers are so vibrant if anyone can help pin down the name I’d appreciate it.

I need to enjoy these all now as the summer rains will begin soon and blooms won’t last long. Hope you like.

Craig

Ok all you gardeners out there time for a quiz. Make your best guess as to what this is a photo of.

These copper leaves came out as one whirl, at the tip of the leader, and doubled in size each day. They went from nothing to 14 inches long in one week.

Here is another shot from a bit more distance. Can you guess what it is?

Hints:

• If you look at the background planting you will see that it is growing in a tropical region.
• It will only grow within 20 degrees of the equator.
• It does best as an understory planting.
• It likes to have daily rain and loves high humidity.
• I’m not growing it for its fruit but it is edible.

Do you give up yet?

• Think warm drinks….humm……….no its not coffee.
• Think cake……..that’s too easy now….any guesses?
• Think syrup…….no…not maple, silly.

Ok one last hint.

• What I hope to harvest actually grows directly off of the trunk and branches and can get up to 12 inches long………HA!….no it’s not a banana, sorry.

Okay enough teasing. It’s a Cacao tree, you know, where chocolate comes from. I bought this on one of my trips down to western Miami. I don’t expect it to produce anything for a few years though….Life fantasy 64 is to own a Cacao grove in the islands someday…

• Craig Rees Cowden
• p.s. Shortly I’ll be telling you where you can get your hands on a few of the seeds if you want to try making some chocolate yourself.

Some Like it HOT!!!!

If April showers bring May flowers what do the May showers bring? Summer flowers of course. April May and June are the most well known months for prolific blooms but if you select the right plants the summer heat  can bring lots of color too. Here are few summer bloomers that really prefer it hot. Plant them now for a great splash of brightness until the temperature begins to cool.

The colors of the Verbena species are almost neon. They grow great in zones 3-11. Colors range from pale lavender to burgundy lilac, coral to pink. They like it hot and dry, making them a good choice for pots.

Lantana is another one that likes it hot and dry and comes in a multitude of bright colors.

The whole sage family does great in the heat and provides lots of color, in bright red, pink, lavander and blue. The hotter it is the happier sage is.

If you have the summer heat and the high humidity there are several other options to try.

Firecracker flower is a prolific summer bloomer and is also a good one for attracting hummingbirds and is deer resistant! It’s fine texture makes it useful for developing contrast in the garden, something I believe is crucial to a beautiful garden.

Mexican Butterfly bush (Buddlea davidii) is heat resistant, drought tolerant and a prolific bloomer as well as a great butterfly attractant. This one comes in white, blue and lavander.

You can see that there are several good summer blooming plants for hot locations. Make sure you plant them so that you can see them from inside, where it’s airconditioned.

Rees Cowden

No Brown Thumbs